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patkay85's review against another edition
adventurous
informative
inspiring
reflective
fast-paced
4.75
daltokki's review against another edition
adventurous
funny
inspiring
reflective
medium-paced
4.25
Brilliant writing. Deeply immersive.
vallelavallela's review against another edition
adventurous
inspiring
reflective
relaxing
medium-paced
Should only be read on a beach. Great descriptions of his relationship with surfing and the ocean and of personal growth
kodisfrost's review against another edition
I just can’t really do this rn- white man explains surfing being this
joshuakazebee's review against another edition
4.0
Naturally, this book is advertised as an interesting read for non surfers and surfers alike. But I think most non surfers would start finding all of the surf description a bit boring at least halfway through this nearly 500 page book.
That being said, Finnegan is a fantastic writer. Although this is his own memoir, you’ll find that you learn as much or more about the people that he interacted with throughout his journey as you learn about Finnegan himself.
In response to some other reviewers who seem to dislike this book because they dislike Finnegan. I’d say, that’s a bit intentional. He’s fairly self deprecating, especially toward his younger self. I think this only makes sense as he’s trying to be honest about the ways that he has matured over the years.
That being said, Finnegan is a fantastic writer. Although this is his own memoir, you’ll find that you learn as much or more about the people that he interacted with throughout his journey as you learn about Finnegan himself.
In response to some other reviewers who seem to dislike this book because they dislike Finnegan. I’d say, that’s a bit intentional. He’s fairly self deprecating, especially toward his younger self. I think this only makes sense as he’s trying to be honest about the ways that he has matured over the years.
amjammi's review against another edition
4.0
This is a charming book, but after 200 pages I don't feel compelled to keep reading. Also, I don't know why this is still a surprise to me, but I'm always stunned at how effortless it is to travel the world when you're a young, well-educated, white man.
ronfali's review against another edition
5.0
This is best memoir/biography I've ever read. One of the best books I've read, period. This book is more than you think.