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If you are the second one to tell your account of a tragic event, painting yourself as the only person in the book who did anything (when the other version is generally pretty balanced) just makes you look petty. After reading Jon Krakauer's Into thin Air, this book feels like a sad attempt to make himself look like the hero. Unlike Krakauer's novel in which he clearly acknowledges the mistakes that he made, Boukreev at no point admits that he could have done anything different. He makes the others on Hall's team sound like useless idiots that wouldn't help instead of acknowledging that they were injured and those that weren't were try to get back to Hall. Personally, if you are involved in a tragedy like this and can do nothing better than flaunt your own hubris, then I have no use for you. If you are looking for a good book on the Everest disaster of '96, go to Krakauer's book. If you want a book where the author essentially toots his own horn the entire time, then this is for you.
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inspiring
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One of the most elite mountaineers in history tells his account of the 1996 Everest disaster. As a guide for Seattle-based Mountain Madness, his job was ensuring the safety of their clients. Jon Krakauer is a bit critical of Boukreev’s decisions, as is documented in Into Thin Air, so this is Boukreev’s version. Another fantastic Everest memoir. I won’t take sides. They both had traumatic experiences and valid memories. The epilogue made me cry.
An important balance to Into Thin Air, but not as engaging or compelling.
The biggest downfall of this book is the writing-style, which is clunky, overly detailed and monotonous. However it's an important story to share, particularly against Jon Krakauer's 'Into Thin Air', and Anatoli Bourkeev was undoubtedly one of the climbing greats. Anatoli was undoubtedly a great climber and incredibly brave, and he risked his life to save others that day.
This is a difficult book to review. On the one hand, with an interest in the '96 Everest disaster and of Everest history in general, this is compulsory reading. However, on the other hand it isn't the best written of books and struggles sometimes under the weight of its own intentions.
The Climb sets out to address the criticism leveled at Russian/Kazakh high-altitude climber Anatoli Boukreev by the American author Jon Krakauer in his bestselling book [b: Into Thin Air|1898|Into Thin Air A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster|Jon Krakauer|https://i.gr-assets.com/images/S/compressed.photo.goodreads.com/books/1463384482l/1898._SX50_.jpg|1816662]. It contains a fascinating account of the other major expedition, Mountain Madness, which along with Krakauer's team, was caught up in the tragedy of May 1996.
Given that it was written by Boukreev (with the assistance of writer G Weston DeWalt) who was hired as a professional guide it goes further into the technical details of the climb, including discussions of rope fixing and oxygen caches. Unfortunately the style is awkward, mixing quotes from various sources, tied together by a narrative. Whilst this does a good job of preserving the context of the quotes it feels somewhat stilted and ungainly, lurching from one perspective to another, from one part of the climb to another. Anyone who has read Into Thin Air will know that in contrast, this book is well constructed and engagingly written.
I think in The Climb the desire to present quotes and facts so as to be unambiguous has meant that the book has lost a soul. Still, its different perspective on the events is insightful and gives you perhaps a better idea of what conspired. Certainly it shows Boukreev as the hero he undoubtedly was, saving three people from the cold embrace of death and returning to the mountains only days after surviving the events on Everest.
Despite flaws in its writing I would still recommend this book to anyone interested in the challenge of the high mountains.
The Climb sets out to address the criticism leveled at Russian/Kazakh high-altitude climber Anatoli Boukreev by the American author Jon Krakauer in his bestselling book [b: Into Thin Air|1898|Into Thin Air A Personal Account of the Mount Everest Disaster|Jon Krakauer|https://i.gr-assets.com/images/S/compressed.photo.goodreads.com/books/1463384482l/1898._SX50_.jpg|1816662]. It contains a fascinating account of the other major expedition, Mountain Madness, which along with Krakauer's team, was caught up in the tragedy of May 1996.
Given that it was written by Boukreev (with the assistance of writer G Weston DeWalt) who was hired as a professional guide it goes further into the technical details of the climb, including discussions of rope fixing and oxygen caches. Unfortunately the style is awkward, mixing quotes from various sources, tied together by a narrative. Whilst this does a good job of preserving the context of the quotes it feels somewhat stilted and ungainly, lurching from one perspective to another, from one part of the climb to another. Anyone who has read Into Thin Air will know that in contrast, this book is well constructed and engagingly written.
I think in The Climb the desire to present quotes and facts so as to be unambiguous has meant that the book has lost a soul. Still, its different perspective on the events is insightful and gives you perhaps a better idea of what conspired. Certainly it shows Boukreev as the hero he undoubtedly was, saving three people from the cold embrace of death and returning to the mountains only days after surviving the events on Everest.
Despite flaws in its writing I would still recommend this book to anyone interested in the challenge of the high mountains.
My main complain is that the constant mix of the first and third person is a little confusing. That's one point for Krakauer's Into Thin Air, which was a delightful reading. However, after having read both, I have to say I'm a little sad about how Boukreev was depicted in Krakauer's narrative. It's not fair, I can see a lot of prejudice towards him and his actions. Anatoli was a hero, he went up and down the mountain when nobody else would. He was such a strong soul, keeping on after such an event His only fault was not knowing enough English to sound as convincing as Krakauer in the first moments after the disaster.
Spoiler
—besides his mother death and a very traumatic bus accident—, until he himself succumbed to the power of another mountain.
I first read Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air, which I liked because his description of how utterly difficult and dangerous it is to climb Mt. Everest was so vivid. But Krakauer only gives one side of the 1996 Everest Disaster, and it wasn't until I read Boukreev's book that I realized how much Krakauer misrepresented or didn't mention in his book.
Boukreev is simply a badass. His way of thinking and his approach to climbing, as described in this book is refreshingly clear. He brings so much information from his perspective as an experienced mountaineer, but also brings so much information from his perspective as an incredibly observant individual. He blends both perspectives so the reader can get a picture of how climbing experience and individual personalities played a role in the 1996 Everest Disaster.
Into Thin Air is a great introduction to Mt. Everest and the physical toll that climbing the mountain can have on individuals. It's also a good introduction to the 1996 Everest Disaster, but I found Boukreev to be so much more in depth about the humanity behind the events of the disaster.
Boukreev is simply a badass. His way of thinking and his approach to climbing, as described in this book is refreshingly clear. He brings so much information from his perspective as an experienced mountaineer, but also brings so much information from his perspective as an incredibly observant individual. He blends both perspectives so the reader can get a picture of how climbing experience and individual personalities played a role in the 1996 Everest Disaster.
Into Thin Air is a great introduction to Mt. Everest and the physical toll that climbing the mountain can have on individuals. It's also a good introduction to the 1996 Everest Disaster, but I found Boukreev to be so much more in depth about the humanity behind the events of the disaster.
I read The Climb immediately upon completion of Jon Krakauer's award winning memoir, Into Thin Air. Anatoli Boukreev's book is oft referenced as a counterpoint to Krakauer's work and in it he defends many of decisions that were questioned in Into Thin Air. This book also describes the Mt. Everest climbing disaster in May of 1996, but this time the story shifts from that of client to that of guide. Boukreev serves as a climbing leader for Scott Fischer's Mountain Madness and his memoir tells the story from this angle.[return][return]Observing the same people and places from another vantage point is fascinating and educational, but I lost interest towards the end of the book when the novel switches from a tragic yet heroic tale of Everest to a 100+ page diatribe on why Krakauer was incorrect. I do understand wanting to keep your name clean, but I think the actions spoke strongly throughout the text and did not need a 100+ pages of bonus material to ensure you wore the "Team Boukreev" T-shirt. Aside from the last bit, this is a very well written novel that I would highly recommend.
adventurous
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This is such an interesting, almost mirrored perspective of Into Thin Air, on what happened in the days leading up to May 10, 1996.
I'm so glad Boukreev could set some things straight by telling his side of the story.
I'm so glad Boukreev could set some things straight by telling his side of the story.