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tombennett72's review against another edition
5.0
Brilliant.
Open, honest, luminous writing.
And what a story.
Open, honest, luminous writing.
And what a story.
aycee_s's review against another edition
adventurous
challenging
informative
reflective
slow-paced
3.75
bigbeardedguy's review against another edition
adventurous
challenging
funny
informative
inspiring
reflective
relaxing
medium-paced
4.0
fbroom's review against another edition
5.0
UPDATE: three years later and I still think that this is the most romantic book I've ever read.
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I’m not a surfer and I don’t know anything about surfing but I found this book to be absolutely charming and genuine. I just loved hearing the author talk about those waves. It was a relaxing book for me and my long commutes.
The first part was about William’s childhood in Los Angeles and Hawaii.
The second part was about his traveling around the world surfing at many spots.
The third part was about coming back home from traveling around the world and settling down but still surfing.
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I’m not a surfer and I don’t know anything about surfing but I found this book to be absolutely charming and genuine. I just loved hearing the author talk about those waves. It was a relaxing book for me and my long commutes.
The first part was about William’s childhood in Los Angeles and Hawaii.
The second part was about his traveling around the world surfing at many spots.
The third part was about coming back home from traveling around the world and settling down but still surfing.
mrs_bonaventure's review against another edition
5.0
This was the book of the summer for me - every time I picked it up, it felt as if I dived into the sea, and cane away drenched and salty. I can’t surf, I’ve only tried it twice and although I loved it, I’m coming very late to the party and I’m not sure my runner’s knees would stand very much of it. However this is much more than a surfing book - it’s more like a meditation on life, a document on mastery, at practice, and the ineffable, the sublime touched only now and again during that lifelong practice. Taking in Hawaii, California, Indonesia, Australia and New York, from the 60s to the 2000s, and with an acute political sensibility and sense of place, I loved this from the moment I entered the water.