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christie's review
3.0
I got into this one knowing some of it might be over my head. I'm not a surfer, nor do I live near anywhere surfing takes place (so haven't picked up on anything by osmosis). But I admire the surfing lifestyle in some ways, at least what I have heard about it. So I figured this might be an interesting read, because you don't really think about meaning and philosophy and surfing in the same thought process.
I liked some of the ideas here, especially about working less, both for environmental reasons and for more leisurely reasons. Surfing was tied to many different ideas in a variety of ways, and I learned quite a bit about philosophy, while revisiting some of what I learned in college. But it was slow going for me at times. I also don't really know if I buy all the arguments about why surfing is meaningful and/or good for society. Not all of us are lucky enough to live near surf able waves, or even to the ocean, and I don't know how much we're left with to take away from this.
I liked some of the ideas here, especially about working less, both for environmental reasons and for more leisurely reasons. Surfing was tied to many different ideas in a variety of ways, and I learned quite a bit about philosophy, while revisiting some of what I learned in college. But it was slow going for me at times. I also don't really know if I buy all the arguments about why surfing is meaningful and/or good for society. Not all of us are lucky enough to live near surf able waves, or even to the ocean, and I don't know how much we're left with to take away from this.
aasplund's review
3.0
Goodness, I wish I had been able to pay attention more through this book.
My brother and my dad are both HUGE philosophy fans and they've each read tons of philosophy books. I appreciate their interest and the way it fuels interesting discussions, but I tend to read more straightforward books with clearer messages and more direct calls for action. Philosophy seems so vague and distant and unapplicable.
That being said, I really enjoyed this book. While I often found it difficult to pay attention (and would find that I'd read several pages without really processing what I was reading), I was benefitted when I was able to concentrate on what I was reading. This book really brought me back to some college classes I took years ago and prompted some interesting discussions with people around me. Even if I don't agree with everything the author discussed or if not all of it was interesting to me, I appreciate that this book was conversational, intriguing, and often quite funny (more so than I was really anticipating, honestly).
This is a book I wish I'd had more patience for and perhaps I'll give it another try in a few years. Recommended for those with an interest in philosophy or outdoor sports (because surfing isn't the only one discussed).
My brother and my dad are both HUGE philosophy fans and they've each read tons of philosophy books. I appreciate their interest and the way it fuels interesting discussions, but I tend to read more straightforward books with clearer messages and more direct calls for action. Philosophy seems so vague and distant and unapplicable.
That being said, I really enjoyed this book. While I often found it difficult to pay attention (and would find that I'd read several pages without really processing what I was reading), I was benefitted when I was able to concentrate on what I was reading. This book really brought me back to some college classes I took years ago and prompted some interesting discussions with people around me. Even if I don't agree with everything the author discussed or if not all of it was interesting to me, I appreciate that this book was conversational, intriguing, and often quite funny (more so than I was really anticipating, honestly).
This is a book I wish I'd had more patience for and perhaps I'll give it another try in a few years. Recommended for those with an interest in philosophy or outdoor sports (because surfing isn't the only one discussed).
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