Reviews

In het restaurant by Christoph Ribbat, Joël Broekaert

zaqzaqzaq's review against another edition

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informative lighthearted reflective fast-paced

3.5

tellingetienne's review against another edition

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3.0

This was a bit hard to read, for all that the writing was compelling. Ribbat has an engaging voice but he skips from topic to topic and you don't ever get to dig into things before he moves on. I don't feel so much like I read a book, but a series of factoids.

msaari's review against another edition

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4.0

An interesting history of restaurants. The way Ribbat tells the story of restaurants is fascinating: he moves the story along in wignets, highlighting interesting people here and there, moving along in the timeline. Makes for a swift, easy, pleasant read.

christinamk88's review against another edition

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5.0

This was a gift and not a book I would have picked up on my own. I took a long time reading this mainly because it is so full of information and details. I needed to savor this.
Reading this was like falling down the rabbit hole, each chapter led me to more books. I have added at least nine books to my TBR as they were referenced.
I defiantly recommend. This is well written - and just fascinating.

jennybeastie's review against another edition

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3.0

Well, this is a fascinating collection of restaurant history and trivia and anecdotes and social commentary on the role eating out has played in the world over history. Really, fascinating. And conveyed in short, easily palatable bursts. To me, it just felt like it wanted a really good wrap up at the end to pull it all together and that wasn't really present. Enjoyable, but also more atmospheric -- think short stories of history, not a through narrative.

Advanced reader's copy provided by Edelweiss.

annarella's review against another edition

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4.0

An interesting and fascinating history of restaurant. It's well researched and written and can be easily read without any moment of bore.
Recommended!
Many thanks to Pushkin Press and Edelweiss for this ARC

abookishtype's review against another edition

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5.0

In the Restaurant, by Christoph Ribbat and translated by Jamie Searle Romanelli, is one of the strangest nonfiction books I’ve ever read. Most nonfiction books are set up chronologically. It’s the most logical way to tell a lot of stories. In the Restaurant, however, is served up to readers like tapas. It jumps from topic to topic, telling the story of restaurants with side dishes of sociology, literature, crime, and commentary about what the institutions show us about society...

Read the rest of my review at A Bookish Type. I received a free copy of this book from the publisher via NetGalley, for review consideration.

annarella's review against another edition

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4.0

An interesting and fascinating history of restaurant. It's well researched and written and can be easily read without any moment of bore.
Recommended!
Many thanks to Pushkin Press and Edelweiss for this ARC

wafflesnbooks's review against another edition

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2.0

I found this very disjointed and hard to follow. Some of the anecdotes were interesting, but I could never bring myself to care much because I didn't know if any of the stories would pick up again later. I finished it out of a vague curiosity, but I wouldn't recommend it.

jackielaw's review against another edition

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5.0

“To eat together, to drink, to entrust oneself to others’ care: this turns the restaurant into a place where the open society is both celebrated and lived out every day.”

In the Restaurant, by Christoph Ribbat (translated by Jamie Searle Romanelli), provides a potted history of the restaurant alongside the sociology and psychology of those who work in and frequent such establishments. Written in short bites of piquant text each entry is easily digested. This is a fun and fascinating account of the eatery’s growth and development.

What a modern European would think of as a restaurant came into being in Paris around 1760. The upper classes were enticed to eat at a new style of the ubiquitous inn, one which served ‘restorative’ bouillons for those who considered their palates sensitive. Customers were given a table to themselves rather than having to share benches with strangers. They could choose when they wanted to eat and select their choice of dish from a menu. Ambience and service were of the utmost importance.

Unlike other upper class venues at the time, anyone who could pay for their food and drink was admitted. Restaurants were furnished with niches and alcoves enabling a degree of privacy despite the public setting. Unusually, men and women appeared together. Before long these early restaurants were serving more than just bouillon. Specialities developed with views on quality and innovation disseminated by newly emerging writers – the restaurant critic. Interest in these Parisian ventures encouraged others to open restaurants around the world.

From the beginning staff were stratified with rigid, snobbish hierarchies emerging. The chef ruled in the kitchen which was kept hidden from customers. Waiters were go-betweens, tasked with making the customer feel welcome and valued. Despite the hard work and long hours, salaries were low – mortality amongst employees subjected to the health hazards in busy kitchens was high.

Chefs published cookbooks to raise their profile and that of their place of work. The dishes they developed evolved as increased tourism brought with it new culinary skills, ideas and tastes. Increased efficiency in the kitchen was achieved by introducing specialisms.

George Orwell was one of the first authors to draw attention to the more unsavoury aspects of a restaurant’s kitchen practices, based of his experience working there. Meanwhile critics were feted and the famous fed for free to raise an establishment’s profile. Over time food fashions changed as chefs sought to capture the zeitgeist. Customers continued to seek

“sophistication rather than satiation”

From a simple idea the restaurant developed in many directions. Industrialisation and automation brought with it fast food chains. The quest for Michelin stars encouraged the creation of labour intensive art to be consumed. Staff are still badly paid.

“It is possible to make a living from only one in five jobs in the American food industry.”

Although presented in anecdotal style with reference to individuals and particular establishments, the source notes for the numerous entries in this book are extensive. Detailed references are provided in a section at the end. What comes across is how much has changed and yet also remained the same. The restaurant remains

“a theatre for all the senses”

The players rely on both the artisanal and industrial workers. While customers may be hedonistic, enjoying the performance and eating experience, there remains widespread exploitation of staff and those who provide the base ingredients.

There are now many types of restaurant with wide varieties of operating philosophies. These cater for: the time strapped; those seeking comfort food; demands for fresh produce; the semblance of ethical practices; health fads and fashions. Although now everyday destinations for many, at the high end of the market success brings its own problems. One example cited was of the newly listed three Michelin star establishment that was asked by a potential customer where they could land their helicopter. The cost of such meals may appear obscene while people go hungry. Demand remains.

And such tales add to the interest of what is an entertaining and intelligent glimpse into the kitchens and public spaces of restaurants operating within a multitude of environments: capitalist and communist states; bustling cities and small town America; remote Spanish beach sides and Nordic forest. The author treads lightly yet gets to the heart of the issues faced by staff and proprietors. This is an entertaining smorgasbord of reading pleasure for anyone who has worked in or frequented a restaurant.
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