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lmc_sf's review against another edition
4.0
don't let jesus in the title scare you away. very interesting story about guy who loses everything after a long battle with lyme disease and finds his way through surfing. it's really not a surf story, either. he searches for three years for legendary Conductor (legend is this man controls the surf with a baton made of bone. smart, well written. history, philosophy, a little of a lot of things.
ssejig's review
3.0
An interesting biography of a man finding himself through surfing and, more importantly, finding the origin of a surf legend.
This was recommended to me by an intern three years ago and I finally got around to reading it. An interesting premise and well-written. I don't know that much about surfing and this didn't really grab me. But an okay read and an interesting addition to the collection of spiritual-type books that I've been reading lately.
This was recommended to me by an intern three years ago and I finally got around to reading it. An interesting premise and well-written. I don't know that much about surfing and this didn't really grab me. But an okay read and an interesting addition to the collection of spiritual-type books that I've been reading lately.
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