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rosiegreene's review against another edition
adventurous
funny
hopeful
informative
inspiring
reflective
medium-paced
4.75
megan_reads_daily's review against another edition
adventurous
informative
inspiring
reflective
medium-paced
4.0
This book gave an interesting glimpse into the preoccupations of a life-long surfer. It’s a perspective that I knew nothing about; I enjoyed learning a little about the places the author visited on his wave-chasing adventures.
laurmyfe's review against another edition
adventurous
emotional
funny
inspiring
reflective
relaxing
slow-paced
4.25
The writing in this was fantastic. Author is perceptive and honest about himself and others. His love of waves comes across so clearly and cleanly. A writing style to aspire to.
The end chapter was very poignant and melancholic. I didn’t think I would be that sad to see a return to Tavarua. Also, stark ending. And no acknowledgements was kind of insane to me, especially since he wrote about so many people so personally. The literal physical last page of the book being the last page of the memoir was surprisingly emotional. You turn that last page and you’re staring at the back cover. Maybe an experience I will never have with another book.
The end chapter was very poignant and melancholic. I didn’t think I would be that sad to see a return to Tavarua. Also, stark ending. And no acknowledgements was kind of insane to me, especially since he wrote about so many people so personally. The literal physical last page of the book being the last page of the memoir was surprisingly emotional. You turn that last page and you’re staring at the back cover. Maybe an experience I will never have with another book.
connor82702's review against another edition
adventurous
hopeful
reflective
medium-paced
4.25
Took you down a clear and direct path of a long winding life story, playing on the constant theme of return and anchoring your life. Ending as it began, surfing as Bill’s constant.
tombennett72's review against another edition
5.0
Brilliant.
Open, honest, luminous writing.
And what a story.
Open, honest, luminous writing.
And what a story.