Jours barbares - Une vie de surf by William Finnegan

Jours barbares - Une vie de surf

William Finnegan

599 pages first pub 2015 (editions)

nonfiction memoir travel adventurous informative reflective slow-paced
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Description

Bien plus qu'un sport, le surf est un art de vivre. D'Hawa la Californie, William Finnegan grandit entre le paradis et l'enfer des vagues. Gamin aventureux, il devient crivain, reporter de guerre et traque les spots aux quatre coins du globe. De l...

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Community Reviews Summary of 1,697 reviews

Moods

adventurous 92%
reflective 68%
inspiring 52%
informative 50%
funny 20%
relaxing 18%
emotional 13%
challenging 10%
hopeful 6%
lighthearted 6%
tense 2%
sad 1%

Pace

slow 50%
medium 46%
fast 3%

Average rating

4.13

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