Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

William Finnegan

466 pages first pub 2015 (editions) user-added

nonfiction memoir travel adventurous informative reflective slow-paced
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 Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of lif...

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