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christoke 's review for:
How to Climb 5.12, 3rd
by Eric J. Hörst
I think the book was a good read!
I guess you may be wondering why I gave it a 3. Well, it wasn't really like the greatest book ever read, nor did it really change my life. But the 3 also doesn't mean it was written poorly. It just means it was a good, instructional read. I learned plenty from it, and I'm glad I read it! It has plenty of tips and bits of knowledge that will help any new climber to move up another grade (whether that's 5.9 or 5.13).
Also, the book should be judged by the title. This book is not here to teach you how to climb. It's here to give you wisdom that specifically relates to climbing 5.12. It won't tell you how to heel hook, or flag a foot, but it will tell you things you can do to get stronger, and it also helped me to learn some important steps to avoid injury.
I think the easiest way to convey how this book is helpful is through an example:
I think most climbers go to the gym 3x a week, and when they go, they probably have the same goal in mind every time: "Climb at my upper limit. If I can't get it, I need to climb more, get stronger, and then go and try it again".
This isn't 100% wrong, but HTC (this book) points out a few helpful strategies you may not have thought of. "Getting stuck? Well, take 2 days rest off after tough days. If you're a guy, check your feet, odds are your footwork could use a lot of work. The way to to work that is down climb (which works surprisingly well). If you're a girl, don't be afraid to go for it, odds are you can already make the move if you don't hold back. Are you solving the problems yourself or are you asking the best climber there what to do? If so, stop, figure things out yourself. Are you climbing sport every single time? If so, switch it up. The variety will help you improve. Think about the move you can't make. Can you even imagine yourself doing it? No? Well how are you supposed to do it in real life? Visualize your routes on your off days.
Etc...
A lot of that stuff is kind of like: "Well, yeah, I mean, duh...." But when you actually have someone tell you: "TAKE A MONTH OFF ONCE A YEAR. I know it stinks, I know you'll lose strength, but it'll be worth it long term" it just helps in a way common sense doesn't always do...
And that's why I like this book!
So yeah, Hope this helps you decide!
Enjoy
-Chris
I guess you may be wondering why I gave it a 3. Well, it wasn't really like the greatest book ever read, nor did it really change my life. But the 3 also doesn't mean it was written poorly. It just means it was a good, instructional read. I learned plenty from it, and I'm glad I read it! It has plenty of tips and bits of knowledge that will help any new climber to move up another grade (whether that's 5.9 or 5.13).
Also, the book should be judged by the title. This book is not here to teach you how to climb. It's here to give you wisdom that specifically relates to climbing 5.12. It won't tell you how to heel hook, or flag a foot, but it will tell you things you can do to get stronger, and it also helped me to learn some important steps to avoid injury.
I think the easiest way to convey how this book is helpful is through an example:
I think most climbers go to the gym 3x a week, and when they go, they probably have the same goal in mind every time: "Climb at my upper limit. If I can't get it, I need to climb more, get stronger, and then go and try it again".
This isn't 100% wrong, but HTC (this book) points out a few helpful strategies you may not have thought of. "Getting stuck? Well, take 2 days rest off after tough days. If you're a guy, check your feet, odds are your footwork could use a lot of work. The way to to work that is down climb (which works surprisingly well). If you're a girl, don't be afraid to go for it, odds are you can already make the move if you don't hold back. Are you solving the problems yourself or are you asking the best climber there what to do? If so, stop, figure things out yourself. Are you climbing sport every single time? If so, switch it up. The variety will help you improve. Think about the move you can't make. Can you even imagine yourself doing it? No? Well how are you supposed to do it in real life? Visualize your routes on your off days.
Etc...
A lot of that stuff is kind of like: "Well, yeah, I mean, duh...." But when you actually have someone tell you: "TAKE A MONTH OFF ONCE A YEAR. I know it stinks, I know you'll lose strength, but it'll be worth it long term" it just helps in a way common sense doesn't always do...
And that's why I like this book!
So yeah, Hope this helps you decide!
Enjoy
-Chris