A review by timothyneesam
Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller

5.0

46-year-old adventure writer Peter Heller gives himself six months to go from novice (or, 'kook') to skilled surfer ('shredder'), mostly along the coast of Mexico. This is a book about the joy of surfing, but it's also a book about relationships, particularly regarding Kim (the woman he marries), as well as his teachers and fellow surfers. Heller's a good writer (The Dog Stars remains a favourite of mine), as a narrator he's both likeable and self-aware (even when he's being a jerk), and I enjoyed the story he told. There are a few detours about how we are destroying our oceans and their inhabitants. Overall, it's a good read. Recommended.