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A review by sashkello
Annapurna by Maurice Herzog
4.0
A very well written book which feels like an adventure, at the same time goes quite a bit into technical details and gory stuff. The expedition felt a bit rushed and the way back was something they didn't think through at all, so I doubt this book is a good one to inspire future mountaineers, as it's more scary than exciting. It's obvious the author brushed over some less pleasant aspects of the expedition (obvious conflicts in the group, horrible stuff going on in mid 20th century Nepal etc). But... you kind of read it between the lines.
Also, I'd like to say that the controversy about this account is extremely sensationalized. I've read through a lot of stuff including Lachenal's diary excerpts and I must say there is very little difference in the story. Yes, Herzog chose to avoid covering some things, but it's very understandable and mostly for the benefit of everyone involved. No one wants to read about verbal altercations. But let me say this - throughout the whole book he praises each and every member of the team so much it honestly gets a bit annoying at some point. Nowhere he describes himself as a lone hero, and more than that while reading it honestly felt to me that he was the one eventually reaching the summit only because he was ready to sacrifice his health and life for it (and he obviously was, there is no question about it). Not a bad word is said about any member of the group here. Those sensationalized articles where some members of the party say stuff like "oh, he says "we decided", but it was me who found that track!" are honestly just petty. By any means, this account is very close to reality and is supported by everyone, the only difference is in subjective judgement, which is something you can see for yourself. At many points in the story heroism is bordering with stupidity and you don't have to scream "controversy" to understand that.
Also, I'd like to say that the controversy about this account is extremely sensationalized. I've read through a lot of stuff including Lachenal's diary excerpts and I must say there is very little difference in the story. Yes, Herzog chose to avoid covering some things, but it's very understandable and mostly for the benefit of everyone involved. No one wants to read about verbal altercations. But let me say this - throughout the whole book he praises each and every member of the team so much it honestly gets a bit annoying at some point. Nowhere he describes himself as a lone hero, and more than that while reading it honestly felt to me that he was the one eventually reaching the summit only because he was ready to sacrifice his health and life for it (and he obviously was, there is no question about it). Not a bad word is said about any member of the group here. Those sensationalized articles where some members of the party say stuff like "oh, he says "we decided", but it was me who found that track!" are honestly just petty. By any means, this account is very close to reality and is supported by everyone, the only difference is in subjective judgement, which is something you can see for yourself. At many points in the story heroism is bordering with stupidity and you don't have to scream "controversy" to understand that.