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A review by clay1st
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
5.0
I've given this book five stars to reflect my enjoyment of it, but it is certainly not for everyone.
I have only a little surf experience myself but I would say that, some practical experience of surfing is essential to enjoy and understand this book.
It's a proper memoir, no plot or over-constructed narrative, just a man looking back at his days and recounting the narratives as they appear to himself, looking back.
It's hard to say why else I enjoyed it so much, but, I did!
I have only a little surf experience myself but I would say that, some practical experience of surfing is essential to enjoy and understand this book.
It's a proper memoir, no plot or over-constructed narrative, just a man looking back at his days and recounting the narratives as they appear to himself, looking back.
It's hard to say why else I enjoyed it so much, but, I did!