A review by faehearted
Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller

4.0

Despite the fact that the author often came off as kind of a jerk (I suppose I should applaud his honesty, rather than editing out unpleasantness), this is a gorgeous book and has only increased my burning desire to learn to surf. The descriptions of waves and locations are vividly and beautifully drawn, and the environmental asides are heartbreaking and important, and in fact inspired me to make a donation to the Ocean Conservancy. I could see myself re-reading this, which I rarely do. Inspiring!