robinbanks's review against another edition

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2.0

I would highly recommend this book to beginning and/or aspiring surfers; it's a good intro, and Heller does a fine job of conveying just how difficult learning to surf is -- but how rewarding just a few great rides can be. Otherwise, meh.

cathyrodgers's review against another edition

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adventurous funny informative reflective medium-paced

4.0

jmcdbrock's review against another edition

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2.0

This guy is arrogant beyond belief. This had the potential to be a decent book, but fell way short. After reading both Peter Heller and Ian Frazier in a short period of time, I am swearing off travel writing for a while. In fact, I am swearing off all non-fiction for a while! :(

faehearted's review against another edition

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4.0

Despite the fact that the author often came off as kind of a jerk (I suppose I should applaud his honesty, rather than editing out unpleasantness), this is a gorgeous book and has only increased my burning desire to learn to surf. The descriptions of waves and locations are vividly and beautifully drawn, and the environmental asides are heartbreaking and important, and in fact inspired me to make a donation to the Ocean Conservancy. I could see myself re-reading this, which I rarely do. Inspiring!

toomanybarts's review against another edition

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adventurous hopeful inspiring reflective relaxing medium-paced

4.0

lindsayb's review against another edition

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4.0

Quite possibly the best book I could have picked for sitting around for two days on jury duty. It is so easy to get lost in Heller's adventures--I laughed and cried (AWKWARD WHEN IT HAPPENS IN THE JURY WAITING ROOM) throughout the whole thing. There were times I found him quite a bit of a jerkface towards his girlfriend/wife, even more so than the moments he actually acknowledged it, but she was also clearly fine putting up with it. Despite that, I loved all the heroes and asswipes they met along their journey down Mexico's Pacific coast and how he slowly began to pick up on surfing tips. I loved his environmental vignettes, no matter how horrifying they were, and it has certainly piqued my curiosity to learn even more about sea life and what I can do to help (I may have to put my craving for fish on hiatus for a while). It's hard not to find poetry in the ocean, and Heller takes it with gusto. Excuse me while I lose myself in youtube videos of the Mexican Pipeline....

abigailst's review against another edition

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Kind of a goofy book, didn't hold my interest.
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