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emilyrosegorey's review against another edition
4.0
This was my first audiobook. There’s no denying Bill is an excellent writer. I was in it for the non-surfing portions which is the minority (obviously given this is a book about surfing). Overall enjoyed it and it would be curious to try his other books
jonathansubers's review against another edition
5.0
I think in some way this book understood me much better than I understood it. Thankful to have had the opportunity to read.
trillwill's review against another edition
4.0
”Did I still doubt? ‘We will not fear, though the earth give way and the mountains fall into the heart of the sea, though its waters roar and foam.’
I continued to doubt. But I was not afraid. I just didn’t want this to end.”
I continued to doubt. But I was not afraid. I just didn’t want this to end.”
paroof's review against another edition
4.0
This book won the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography, is on Barack Obama's list of recommended books, and was written by a well-known journalist for the "New Yorker"; so I was expecting something thoughtful, well-written, and enjoyable - which is exactly what I got. William Finnegan is an acclaimed journalist who writes about political unrest and has an amazing career doing so, but this book isn't about that at all. It's the story of one man's life-long surfing obsession. It's quiet and reflective and tumultuous and descriptive and most of all filled with passion. And I can guarantee that you don't have to know anything about surfing to enjoy this book.
However, I wouldn't say this book is for everyone, in fact I probably wouldn't recommend it to most people. There isn't much action, at least not in a linear sense.
But for me, finishing this book was like losing a friend.
However, I wouldn't say this book is for everyone, in fact I probably wouldn't recommend it to most people. There isn't much action, at least not in a linear sense.
But for me, finishing this book was like losing a friend.
pipode1234's review against another edition
adventurous
funny
informative
inspiring
reflective
medium-paced
3.25
jolly_joshy's review against another edition
5.0
Reading this book took way longer than expected... I think it's because it's actually long and dense and a lot of it feels repetitive. Let me explain:
So I thought this was the story about some professional surfer and how he learned to surf and then won lots of competitions and what he's learned. Instead it was a story about this chill dude who loves surfing passionately and kept chasing surfing as a pure hobby/lifestyle. He travels the world searching new breaks and new waves and actually does a great job in being on the forefront of the (at the time) niche surf world. How is this repetitive? Because like regardless of the country, or the island, or the coast, it always felt the same - he would be with a buddy, they would look for a wave and then he would ride it for a while and fall off it some more, and then he would compare it to some of the other waves he's ridden, and then he would move on.
Surreee I'm being harsh. But this is what a lot of the book felt like to me.
THAT ALL BEING SAID there were certainly stories that really drew me in. It's cool because he's been to so many places, so there's a good chance he's lived in a city or country or place you're familiar with (San Francisco, Hawaii, New York in the US, and many other countries). I loved reading about his time in these more relatable locations.
Maybe I'm not reading closely enough, but I do wish there were more lessons and takeaways. Like now that he spent 40 years chasing waves, and now that he still dreams about it / still tries to despite his age, what would he have done differently, or what does he wish had happened, or what advice would he have given himself later, etc?
I understand that his story is not over and that he's still exploring and still learning, but this sort of knowledge share really gets me excited you know.
I liked reading his story, and in a way envy him and his style. Read this book, and lmk what you think!
So I thought this was the story about some professional surfer and how he learned to surf and then won lots of competitions and what he's learned. Instead it was a story about this chill dude who loves surfing passionately and kept chasing surfing as a pure hobby/lifestyle. He travels the world searching new breaks and new waves and actually does a great job in being on the forefront of the (at the time) niche surf world. How is this repetitive? Because like regardless of the country, or the island, or the coast, it always felt the same - he would be with a buddy, they would look for a wave and then he would ride it for a while and fall off it some more, and then he would compare it to some of the other waves he's ridden, and then he would move on.
Surreee I'm being harsh. But this is what a lot of the book felt like to me.
THAT ALL BEING SAID there were certainly stories that really drew me in. It's cool because he's been to so many places, so there's a good chance he's lived in a city or country or place you're familiar with (San Francisco, Hawaii, New York in the US, and many other countries). I loved reading about his time in these more relatable locations.
Maybe I'm not reading closely enough, but I do wish there were more lessons and takeaways. Like now that he spent 40 years chasing waves, and now that he still dreams about it / still tries to despite his age, what would he have done differently, or what does he wish had happened, or what advice would he have given himself later, etc?
I understand that his story is not over and that he's still exploring and still learning, but this sort of knowledge share really gets me excited you know.
I liked reading his story, and in a way envy him and his style. Read this book, and lmk what you think!