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realityczar's review against another edition
3.0
Grocery does a fair job of describing the ins and outs of the grocery business in the US, at least from the perspective of the small, regional supermarket chain. It provides limited insight into the corner store, except as a historical notion, or into the operation of the national chains, which largely loom as soulless money machines that the plucky regionals stand in counterpoint against.
A significant part of the book is preaching on American eating habits, but covers little new ground, repeatedly referring to Michael Pollan and Eric Schlosser, and echoing their sentiments. Ruhlman likes his facts and figures, except when science might illuminate his arguments about food, lifestyle, and cooking, where he lets anecdote and "common sense" do the persuading.
Most troubling, he talks only briefly about food deserts and similar aspects of the economics of food. He glorifies his local childhood grocery chain, as they heroically plan to lose money by selling $500 wines in a redeveloped downtown landmark building, but doesn't point out that most of the food he wants us to eat and much of the traditional cooking he would like us to do is just not available economically or geographically to large portions of the population. And his local grocers, though they seem to put a strong focus on treating their employees well, aren't doing anything to help those folks who can't get fresh produce, organic or not, by offering lamb raised in a national park to the wealthy.
A significant part of the book is preaching on American eating habits, but covers little new ground, repeatedly referring to Michael Pollan and Eric Schlosser, and echoing their sentiments. Ruhlman likes his facts and figures, except when science might illuminate his arguments about food, lifestyle, and cooking, where he lets anecdote and "common sense" do the persuading.
Most troubling, he talks only briefly about food deserts and similar aspects of the economics of food. He glorifies his local childhood grocery chain, as they heroically plan to lose money by selling $500 wines in a redeveloped downtown landmark building, but doesn't point out that most of the food he wants us to eat and much of the traditional cooking he would like us to do is just not available economically or geographically to large portions of the population. And his local grocers, though they seem to put a strong focus on treating their employees well, aren't doing anything to help those folks who can't get fresh produce, organic or not, by offering lamb raised in a national park to the wealthy.
liberrydude's review against another edition
4.0
I saw the author promoting his book on one of the morning news shows and was energized by his passion for food and grocery stores. It turns out this passion was nurtured by his dad who died in 2008 or so. So it’s a labor of love and another son reaching out to his father.
Ruhlman is a Cleveland native and we learn all about grocery stores in the context of Cleveland’s local grocer- Heinen’s. These mid size grocers are the ones who drive innovation and change. Big chains like Kroger respond more slowly to change or sometimes wrongly like A&P according to the author. We also visit trade shows with Heinen buyers as well as roam the range in Idaho with shepherds and Heinen’s CEO. Ruhlman goes department by department within the store. We learn a lot about health and bad food as well as meeting a host of eccentric characters loving what they do each and every day.
I’m ready for a visit to Cleveland now.
Ruhlman is a Cleveland native and we learn all about grocery stores in the context of Cleveland’s local grocer- Heinen’s. These mid size grocers are the ones who drive innovation and change. Big chains like Kroger respond more slowly to change or sometimes wrongly like A&P according to the author. We also visit trade shows with Heinen buyers as well as roam the range in Idaho with shepherds and Heinen’s CEO. Ruhlman goes department by department within the store. We learn a lot about health and bad food as well as meeting a host of eccentric characters loving what they do each and every day.
I’m ready for a visit to Cleveland now.
noahbw's review against another edition
4.0
I initially assumed that this would be sociology and/or history -- it's really not. The book could be more aptly named.
Instead, Ruhlman, a food writer, set out to write the book on grocery stores he wanted to read -- and he loves grocery stores. He begins by telling us why he loves them so much: his father. I also love grocery stores. I also love them, and cooking, because of my dad, and he loves them because of his dad. Our generational shifts (my grandfather, dad, me) in thinking about food line up with those in Ruhlman's family.
The book as a whole is chock full, but also very accessible. Ruhlman takes a personal approach, choosing to get to know the mid-size family-owned grocery store chain he grew up with -- their stores, their employees, the brothers who run the company. He uses this as his point of entry for exploring the evolution of the supermarket, including many recent developments and national trends, as well as for considering a variety of health-related concerns regarding our food. In both of these areas, but particularly the latter, he is able to rely heavily on the work that others have done in revealing our food systems and shifting our cultural conversations about food, and I really appreciated how conversational he was rather than trying to present this kind of information as if it were new.
The critique (besides the confusingly broad title) is not a full enough acknowledgement, or understanding, of income and class -- and I say this as someone who fully recognizes Ruhlman's world. He certainly has moments where he points to the role of income disparity in determining food options and therefore health outcomes, but these tend to be moments, and then he returns to the point he was otherwise making. In general, the point he was otherwise making is that we need to eat "real" food that we cook, and though he would acknowledge various factors making this harder for some than others (food deserts, processed food is cheap, etc) he did not actually spend any time considering what this looks like for anyone except the upper/middle class.
Instead, Ruhlman, a food writer, set out to write the book on grocery stores he wanted to read -- and he loves grocery stores. He begins by telling us why he loves them so much: his father. I also love grocery stores. I also love them, and cooking, because of my dad, and he loves them because of his dad. Our generational shifts (my grandfather, dad, me) in thinking about food line up with those in Ruhlman's family.
The book as a whole is chock full, but also very accessible. Ruhlman takes a personal approach, choosing to get to know the mid-size family-owned grocery store chain he grew up with -- their stores, their employees, the brothers who run the company. He uses this as his point of entry for exploring the evolution of the supermarket, including many recent developments and national trends, as well as for considering a variety of health-related concerns regarding our food. In both of these areas, but particularly the latter, he is able to rely heavily on the work that others have done in revealing our food systems and shifting our cultural conversations about food, and I really appreciated how conversational he was rather than trying to present this kind of information as if it were new.
The critique (besides the confusingly broad title) is not a full enough acknowledgement, or understanding, of income and class -- and I say this as someone who fully recognizes Ruhlman's world. He certainly has moments where he points to the role of income disparity in determining food options and therefore health outcomes, but these tend to be moments, and then he returns to the point he was otherwise making. In general, the point he was otherwise making is that we need to eat "real" food that we cook, and though he would acknowledge various factors making this harder for some than others (food deserts, processed food is cheap, etc) he did not actually spend any time considering what this looks like for anyone except the upper/middle class.
jmlblue's review against another edition
2.0
This book was less about grocery stores than it was about Ruhlman ranting about whatever food cause he's focusing on at that time. Some things, like the relationships between small grocery stores and their more specialized suppliers, were interesting, but for the most part, Ruhlman bases his facts on...shall we say, dubious sources. I finished it, but grudgingly.
danaaherron's review against another edition
5.0
Never would I have thought a book about grocery stores would make me cry!
So informative and touching. The final monologue about his dad was so emotional and he was just talking about food! Ruhlman is a fantastic author, made the most boring of topics fascinating. 10/10 would recommend
So informative and touching. The final monologue about his dad was so emotional and he was just talking about food! Ruhlman is a fantastic author, made the most boring of topics fascinating. 10/10 would recommend
theicequeer's review against another edition
3.0
Glad I read it, very informative and opened my eyes to some fascinating subjects. However, a heavy lean on moralizing and some dubious science in some chapters, plus a fairly dry writing style, left me not wanting to revisit it. Worthwhile for someone interested in food, nutrition, retail, and logistics, but it's not gonna make a believer out of someone who's not.
toesinthesand's review against another edition
3.0
good but gets bogged down in some of the details. I loved how it makes you really think about everything that goes into not only a grocery store but our food choices. I enjoy Michael Pollan's books better though
graceminix's review against another edition
Not enough about grocery stores and a lot of ‘Americans are bad at eating and the French are so much better’.
khobson1's review against another edition
3.0
this was actually really interesting despite being a book I had to read for class
statman's review against another edition
3.0
Interesting read on something you don't think about - how the food gets to the shelves of your grocery store. Definitely helps you appreciate how good we have it these days to be able to go and get whatever we want, whenever we want. Ruhlman encourages people to pay more attention to what they are eating, not to succumb to the marketing around us and do more of our own cooking as a way to enjoy our food more and to eat more nutritious food.