A review by karpediem
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

adventurous reflective slow-paced

2.5

Decent, but as a non-surfer it was a slog. At least half of it is just descriptions of waves and storms and surf, and after the first few of those they all felt fairly similar - I didn't need 7 dozen. The timeline seemed to jump around inconsistently and that bothered me; it certainly didn't add anything to the storytelling. I could sum up the book with 'privileged white surfer talks about waves way too much and travels the world taking advantage of the hospitality of locals in developing countries and doesn't acknowledge his privilege until the very end.'